In other words, install the recoil springs and plungers as described in the text and photo in Step 6, and ignore the recoil springs and plungers shown in subsequent photos. The writeup includes photos and text describing the correct procedure, but the photos throughout the build show the springs installed incorrectly, a mistake I didn't realize until the final assembly. Also note that the throughout the build my recoil springs were put in backward. This is my first writeup on, it was suggested to me in the above thread, so apologies in advance for my technical and formatting errors. The original thread, with some information and comments, is found here: I built my first one for just about $200 exactly, the one featured in this writeup. Don't have enough through my PPQs to comment in-depth.Author's note, this project was born out of a thread on the forums about putting together a P38 pistol, assembled from parts found at various sources, extremely cheaply.$300 or as little as $150 with a little patience and legwork. Some pistols have no issues, others it takes many many thousands of rounds. Generally I notice something not working as well as I remember and dig into it - only to find carbon hiding. There are things that need watched longer-term, as well as things that need cleaned less frequently/longer intervals. Keep in mind the above is a "general cleaning" procedure, repeated every few hundred rounds. Then wipe any excess oil off the polymer, and put in the safe. Put the gun back together and wipe down the outside of the frame. You may need some softer brushes or wadded up pads to get inside all the crevices here. Wipe down the underside (above the fire control mechanism). Pierced primers, blown primers, overpressure issues, all leave indicators. Pay special attention to the bolt face, you want that clean as well as inspecting for damage. Make sure you get all 3 sides here - carbon tends to collect where the barrel lays. SLIDE: wipe down the insides from the muzzle to the bolt face.
I go in-depth with a stiff brush every 1000-1500 rounds or so, plain-jane wipe down in the interim. GUIDEROD/SPRING: Wipe this down just to get the carbon off it. Can be a good compromise instead of brushing the barrel every time. You may want to really clean the barrel with brush/patch/rod every 1500 rounds or so, up to you. Wipe them again :) They tend to get dirty and not policing this area can lead to FTFs and FTEs on a long enough timeframe. Wipe the feed ramps and top of chamber extrusion (not sure what called). Wipe the exterior, paying attention to the crown/threads. Hit the back of the frame too (fire control group/ejector) but I tend to be lighter here - don't want excess liquid dripping into the trigger assembly and picking up carbon -> screwing up the PPQ trigger pull.īARREL: Run the boresnake through (make sure to put some oil on the back poofy end). Take the barrel out, as well as the captured guide-rod/spring combo.įRAME: Wipe down the frame, paying special attention to the front (right under the muzzle), the magazine well, and the "right under chamber" area where that bar runs across. Medical swab q-tips are really good too, longer stick and a tighter cotton ball that does not leave fuzzies in your guns.įield strip the pistol. Will be higher quality and cheaper (yay free) than in most gun cleaning kits. They generally have a 'not for human use anymore' tray and let me snag a few. I don't really find myself using dental picks for pistols, but if you would like some ask your dental hygienist about their "broken tool" collection. You could use old dishrags or larger patches if you prefer. I have a box-o-rags (blue shop towels) that I use to clean with, they don't leave particulate or fuzz like paper towels would. I don't have any so can't comment on usage, tossed it due to the overpowering and lingering smell.
FWIW Walther's manual specifically recommends against ammonia based solvents/lubes (Hoppe's #9 is ammonia based). It is not just a lubricant but also a penatrant - very bad long term. I tend to use CLP products, and occasionally Rem-Oil (spray dries with teflon coating). Put a touch of oil on the end and pull through twice/three times. But they have the advantage of being easy, quick, small, and do 90 - 95 percent of the job. They are a relatively new thing, and admittedly do not do as good a job as brush/patch/rod. Take everything you read on here, play with it, and find what works for you. As a new firearms owner you are in a special situation: no pre-existing equipment or preferences.